Some of you may not know that I am a trained geographer. I have a Master’s degree in physical geography, and I worked in the field of retail geography and spatial analysis for 20 years. Although I left the corporate world for full time photography 4 years ago, my training and my experience applying it remain a critically important part of my process as a nature photographer. I've always been fascinated by how geological and other natural processes including humans have shaped the scenes we capture through our lenses, so I've started a new series here called "A Brief Geography" to explore the intersection of geography and landscape photography.

Below is an excerpt from my coming eBook DAWNLAND: Creative, Holistic Approaches to Acadia National Park.

Of Granite, Fire, and Fog

Acadia National Park, located along the rugged coastline of Maine, encompasses a uniqely rich tapestry of diverse landscapes contained within a small area. Protecting a total of approximately 49,000 acres, the park features a distinctive combination of coastal and forest ecosystems, including granite-domed mountains, tranquil lakes, dense and lush woodlands, and a dramatic shoreline. Shaped by ancient glacial activity, the transformative power of fire, and the nourishing quality of fog, this land served as the summer gathering place for the Wabanaki tribes, the People of the Dawnland, for thousands of years. In modern times, it has inspired remarkable dedication and vision on the part of conservationists who came together to protect Acadia for future generations by establishing it in 1919 as the first national park on the east coast. Today, over four million people visit annually from across the world to experience the magic of Acadia, making it one of the top ten most visited national parks in the United States.

Physical Geography

The entirety of the park is spread across three distinct areas: Mount Desert Island (MDI), Isle au Haut, and the Schoodic Peninsula.

Mount Desert Island (MDI)

This is the largest section of Acadia National Park, encompassing about 35,000 acres, which makes up approximately 70% of the park’s total area. MDI is the most visited part of the park, home to famous attractions such as Cadillac Mountain, Jordan Pond, and the Park Loop Road. The very busy town of Bar Harbor is the tourism center these days, but smaller, and arguably, more charming communities are scattered about the island including Southwest Harbor, Northeast Harbor, Seal Harbor, Bernard, Manset, Seal Cove, and Tremont to name a few. Approximately half of the island falls within the national park, with the remainder being a mix of privately owned land and other preserved/protected areas. There are many privately held small tracts completely surrounded by national park, and vice versa. Suffice it to say: protected areas are not contiguous; instead you will find a patchwork quilt of homes, businesses, and preserved lands.

Isle au Haut

National Park lands on this island cover about 2,700 acres, accounting for roughly 5% of the park’s area. Isle au Haut is accessible only by boat, and is therefore more remote and less visited compared to other parts of the park, offering a quieter and more rugged experience.

Schoodic Peninsula

Located an hour north of MDI and on the mainland, the Schoodic Peninsula spans around 2,366 acres, or about 5% of the park’s area. It is known for its scenic coastal views, rocky headlands, and the Schoodic Institute, which serves as a research and education center. Visitors can view the sun setting over MDI and Cadillac Mountain to the west.

The remainder of Acadia National Park is spread across several islands, including the Porcupine Islands, and others.

Twenty six significant mountains rise here, ranging in elevation from 284 feet up to 1,530 feet at Cadillac Mountain, the highest mountain on the eastern coast of this country, and the furthest east. Both of these superlatives make Cadillac mountain the place upon which the morning light falls before any other in the United States (October through May), and the namesake for the indigenous peoples known as the “People of the Dawnland.”

Also of note in this park is the unique and extensive system of carriage roads and bridges woven throughout the park, offering easy access into the heart of Acadia.

Now that we know the basic spatial arrangement of the park, it’s advisable to consider how this landscape came to be. An important part of my own artistic process involves connecting with a place and coming to understand how and why it formed. What forces shaped it? What features and details make it unique and special? The answers to these questions inform my experience of the place, and ultimately my art. Time and again, as questions occur to me about the physicality of Acadia, I have turned to a particular book to help me understand, and that book is Granite, Fire, and Fog: The Natural and Cultural History of Acadia by Tom Wessels. He does a wonderful job of distilling down a huge set of complex processes into a clear and compelling story about what’s important here. Much of what I share below is from this book, and I highly recommend it if you want to dig deeper. The scope of Dawnland is such that I’m really only able to skim the surface of these topics here, but there is a bounty of fascinating, in-depth information available in the book.

Granite

Acadia National Park’s physical geography is diverse and varied, though arguably dominated by the iconic granite domes that rise majestically from the landscape. These mountains were formed from molten rock deep within the Earth’s crust hundreds of millions of years ago. Over time, the processes of tectonic movements, volcanic activity, and erosion have brought these formations to the surface. Granite is quite literally the rock upon which Acadia National park sits.

The pink and gray granite that forms the park’s many cliffs and ledges showcase striking contrasts against the evergreen forests and blue ocean but also hold unique textures and fractures, making them captivating subjects. The granite’s hues shift dramatically with changing light conditions, turning warmer in the glow of sunrise or sunset, adding depth and mood to these scenes.

*View from Cadillac Mountain showing exposed granite*

Glaciation

As the glaciers advanced and retreated during the last Ice Age, they sculpted the granite here into smooth, rounded summits and deep valleys, creating the characteristic topography that is now synonymous with Acadia. This glacial history is evident not only in the granite domes but also in the numerous lakes, ponds, and fjords scattered about Mount Desert Island. Jordan Pond, Echo Lake, and the deep, narrow Somes Sound are all remnants of glacial activity. Glacial erratics, large boulders transported and deposited by the glaciers, dot the landscape, providing further evidence of the park’s glacial past and adding to its geological diversity, as many of these erratics have a different geological composition due to an origin outside of this general area. Many were transported great distances within the glaciers, and deposited here when the ice retreated.

Fire

Fire has been a transformative force in shaping Acadia’s ecosystems. Periodic natural fires, ignited by lightning or other means, play a crucial role in maintaining the health and diversity of the park’s forests. These fires clear out dense underbrush, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor and enabling a variety of plant species to germinate and grow. The cycle of destruction and renewal ensures a dynamic and resilient ecosystem. In addition to natural fires, human-induced fires have also shaped this landscape, including the legendary fire of 1947, which burned a large portion of Bar Harbor and Mount Desert Island and at the time was perceived to be the end of the burgeoning tourism industry. The fire ultimately led to a rejuvenation of the forest and a shift in the composition of tree species, highlighting the role of fire in ecological succession. What was once pine and fir dominated “blackwoods” became a tapestry of many different tree species, including the deciduous hardwoods that colonized the fire-ravaged areas. As a result, the Acadia of today is known for it’s cacophony of fall colors, but clearly this wasn’t always the case. This change, initially seen as catastrophic for tourism, ultimately helped bolster tourism here by way of increasing the perceived beauty of the park.

Fog

Fog is another defining element of Acadia’s physical geography, frequently enveloping the park in a mystical shroud. Sea fog, which rolls in from the Atlantic Ocean, provides essential moisture, especially during the drier summer months. This consistent source of moisture helps support a lush and diverse plant community, including mosses, ferns, and lichens that thrive in the damp conditions.

But fog plays another, lesser-known but equally critical service to the ecosystems of Acadia: it delivers nutrients to the soil. As the fog droplets form, they “capture” particulate matter that is suspended in the air column. Then, as the droplets collect on giant trees and all manner of vegetation, they absorb nutrients and capture other organic materials from the trees before dripping down onto the ground, delivering all of that nourishing goodness to the plants and soils below. This ecosystem service is referred to as fog drip, and is particularly important in Acadia since the soils eroded from granite are known to be especially nutrient poor. Fog drip is the primary reason that Acadia is able to sustain such lush vegetation.

Lastly, fog not only sustains the park’s vegetation but also contributes to the unique aesthetic and atmosphere of Acadia, creating a serene and ethereal landscape that has inspired artists and visitors alike, myself included.

Climate

The climate of Acadia is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. The ocean currents moderate the temperatures, resulting in cool summers and relatively mild winters. This maritime climate supports a variety of habitats, from rocky coastal shores and tidal pools to dense evergreen forests and freshwater wetlands. The intertidal zones, which experience dramatic changes in water levels due to tides, are rich in marine life and serve as critical feeding and breeding grounds for numerous bird species. Inland, the park’s forests range from spruce-fir in the higher elevations to mixed hardwoods in the lower areas. This diversity of habitats ensures that Acadia is home to a wide array of plant and animal species, each adapted to the unique environmental conditions of the park.

Seasons

Acadia’s seasons present distinct moods and opportunities for creative expression throughout the year. Winter brings dramatic ice formations along the coast, snow-draped evergreens, and the possibility of sea smoke rising from the Atlantic on particularly cold mornings. Spring arrives gradually, with fragile wildflowers emerging through melting snow and returning warblers animating the woodlands with song. Summer bathes the landscape in warm light that stretches late into the evening, while morning fog frequently shrouds the coastline and mountain valleys, creating ethereal conditions for photography (my personal favorite). Fall transforms the park’s hardwood forests into a tapestry of colors, typically peaking in mid-October, while the mountain summits and rocky coastline provide stark counterpoints to this autumn display. Each season also brings its own distinct quality of light - from the low angles of winter sun to the soft, misty atmospherics of summer. Note that parts of Acadia National Park do close in the winter.

Tides

The rhythm of the tides plays a crucial role in shaping both the landscape and the photographic opportunities in Acadia National Park. With an average tidal range of 8-12 feet, and occasionally reaching up to 15 feet during spring tides, these daily fluctuations dramatically transform the coastline twice each day. At low tide, expansive rock shelves are revealed, tide pools teem with marine life, and previously submerged features become accessible for intimate compositions. High tide brings powerful waves that crash against the granite cliffs, creating dramatic displays of ocean spray and offering opportunities for long exposure seascapes. This constant ebb and flow affects everything from the timing of photography sessions to composition choices -- what appears as a dramatic sea cave at low tide might become a completely submerged feature at high tide--while a mediocre scene at high tide might reveal fascinating foreground elements when the water recedes. Stay informed about tides to maximize your opportunties and to make informed safety-related decisions.

Cultural Geography

The Wabanaki peoples utilized Mount Desert Island and its surrounding waters as part of their seasonal migration patterns, moving between coastal and inland areas to capitalize on available resources throughout the year. During warmer months, they established camps along the shoreline to harvest marine resources like fish, seals, and shellfish, while the protected harbors provided essential transportation routes via birchbark canoes. The island’s diverse ecosystems offered materials for tools, medicines, and shelter, with specific locations serving as gathering sites for resources like sweetgrass and ash for basketmaking.

The arrival of European colonizers in the 17th century began a long period of displacement that fundamentally altered Wabanaki relationships with their ancestral lands. Disease, violence, and colonial policies devastated Wabanaki populations and disrupted traditional patterns of movement and resource use. By the 18th century, colonial settlements had restricted access to many coastal areas, including Mount Desert Island, forcing many Wabanaki people inland and fragmenting their communities.

The creation of Acadia as a national park in the early 20th century occurred without meaningful consultation with Wabanaki peoples, continuing a pattern of exclusion from decisions about their ancestral territories. While the park preserved the landscape from commercial development, it also formalized restrictions on traditional practices that had sustained Wabanaki communities for millennia. The transformation of their homeland into a recreational space for tourists represented yet another form of displacement, albeit less visible than earlier colonial policies. Despite these historical injustices, Wabanaki peoples maintain profound cultural and spiritual connections to this landscape. Shell middens, archaeological sites, and place names throughout the park preserve evidence of their long presence and sophisticated understanding of local ecosystems. These material traces serve as powerful reminders of both the depth of Wabanaki history in this region and the scope of what was lost through displacement.

Today, Wabanaki nations work to maintain their relationships with ancestral lands while seeking greater recognition of their sovereign rights. Through agreements with the National Park Service, tribal members can access certain areas for gathering traditional materials and conducting cultural practices. However, these limited accommodations highlight the ongoing impacts of displacement, as Wabanaki peoples must now request permission to engage in activities their ancestors practiced freely for thousands of years.

The geography of Acadia cannot be fully understood without acknowledging this history of displacement and its continuing effects on Wabanaki communities. The park’s stunning coastlines and mountains exist within a complex cultural landscape shaped by both indigenous presence and forced absence - a reality that challenges visitors to consider whose land they walk upon and what responsibilities that knowledge entails.

For more information on the Wabanaki, I suggest the Abbe Museum, a Smithsonian Institute affiliated organization. The Abbe Musem is a place where the Wabanaki tell their own story, which makes it a unique and important resource for those seeking insight, truth, and understanding about this important topic.

The European colonization of Acadia began with French colonists in the early 1600s, who established sporadic settlements along the Maine coast including Mount Desert Island. The name “Acadia” itself comes from the French “Acadie,” though control of the region shifted between French and English powers multiple times during the colonial period. By the mid-1700s, English colonization had become dominant, leading to more permanent settlements on Mount Desert Island, with fishing, shipbuilding, and farming becoming primary economic activities.

The late 1800s marked a significant shift in the area’s cultural landscape as it became a prestigious summer retreat for wealthy East Coast families, particularly the Rockefellers, Morgans, and Astors. These “rusticators” built elaborate summer cottages and helped establish Bar Harbor as a fashionable resort destination. Their presence dramatically transformed the local economy from one based on natural resource extraction to one centered on tourism and hospitality. This period also saw the emergence of an architectural style known as the “cottage” - actually massive mansions that combined elements of multiple European architectural traditions.

The creation of Acadia as the first national park east of the Mississippi River in 1919 (initially called Lafayette National Park) represented another cultural shift, broadening access to the landscape while preserving it from further development. This transformation was largely driven by wealthy summer residents, particularly George Dorr and John D. Rockefeller Jr., who donated significant land holdings and funded the construction of the park’s carriage roads. The Great Fire of 1947, which destroyed many of the grand summer cottages and much of Bar Harbor, marked the end of the Gilded Age era but reinforced the park’s role as a public resource rather than a private refuge for the wealthy.

In future installments of this series, we'll explore other landscapes through the lens of geography, helping us better understand and photograph the natural world around us. After all, as landscape photographers, we're not just capturing scenes – we're telling the stories of the ongoing dialogue between water, rock, and time.

What geographical features influence your landscape photography? I'd love to hear about the landscapes that captivate you and the stories they tell through your lens.

Explore more about photographing Acadia National Park in my newest eBook DAWNLAND: Creative, Holistic Approaches to Photographing Acadia National Park. coming soon.

A Brief Geography: Acadia National Park

A Brief Geography: New River Gorge National Park